Devils Tower

My history with Devils Tower ..

Climbing the Tower, 1971 to 1987


Key to this table: Ascent=Count of climbs going to the top (64 total); Time: Count of climbs doing this Route (e.g. Ascent 64 was 2nd time up Witchie); Led/Notes: Pitch(s) I led, etc.

Ascent Date Route Time (Led which pitch) Notes With
1 6/13/1971 Durrance 1st (1st: Leaning tower pitch) With so many of us, it’s an overly long day of climbing. Bob Grundy, Dorothy Jonas, Rich Wefald, Mike Loeffler, Tom Noble
2 5/5/1972 Durrance 2nd (2nd: Durrance Crack) With so many of us, again it’s an overly long day of climbing. Knut Wefald, Gary Olberding, Paul Roberts, Knut Hamann, Duane Cichy
3 9/29/1972 Durrance 3rd (2nd: Durrance Crack) John Schmidt, Gary Brunes
4 9/30/1972 Walt Bailey 1st (1st) We do the actual crack in two parts using aid climbing technique. John Schmidt, Gary Brunes
5 5/5/1973 North Face 1st Route has had only a few ascents, there is mud in cracks, we are slow, and due to darkness are forced to spend the night on top. (Note Ten years later, an afternoon acscent.) John Schmidt
5/29/1976 West Face We’re using aid climbing technique. John Schmidt gets sick on first pitch John Schmidt
5/30/1976 Wiessner We get rained off. Larry Wydra (?)
4/29/1977 Patent Pending We do the initial two and a half pitches, then back off. Paul Martin
6 9/4/1978 Soler 1st (2nd, rated F8) My first ascent with Jim. Jim Slichter, Mark Howe
7 9/5/1978 West Face 1st (1st, rated F9A, 4th pitch, F7) It is 98 degrees at the Tower, but we climb, and descend, in the shade. Jim Slichter, Mark Howe
8 5/28/1979 Walt Bailey 2nd (1st, rated 5.9) We are free climbing (not using aid technique.) Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
9 5/31/1979 Burning Daylight 1st (1st, rated 5.10, 3rd, 5.0) Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
10 6/1/1979 El Cracko 1st (1st, rated 5.7) Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
11 8/31/1979 TAD 1st (2nd, rated 5.7) Jim Slichter
12 9/1/1979 Hollywood & Vine 1st (2nd, rated 5.10) Jim Slichter
13 9/1/1979 Walt Bailey 3rd (2nd, rated 5.7) Jim Slichter
14 9/2/1979 Belle Fourche Buttress 1st Jim Slichter, M Smedley
15 9/3/1979 Delta I 1st (2nd, 5.7) Jim Slichter
9/4/1979 Assembly Line We do two pitches, then back off. Jim Slichter
16 9/5/1979 Bon Homme Variation 1st (2nd, rated 5.5) Jim Slichter
17 9/6/1979 North Face 2nd (2nd, rated A1, 4th, 5.6) Jim Slichter
18 10/18/1979 Walt Bailey 4th (2nd, rated 5.7) Tom Anderson, Jan Ebeltoft
19 10/19/1979 Tower Classic 1st (1st, rated 5.8) Tom Anderson, Jan Ebeltoft
20 6/27/1980 TAD 2nd Barb Anderson
21 6/28/1980 Belle Fourche Buttress 2nd Jim Slichter, Carl Coy
22 6/29/1980 Assembly Line 1st Jim Slichter
23 6/30/1980 Durrance 4th Jim Slichter
24 6/30/1980 Soler 2nd Carl Coy
25 9/11/1980 Belle Fourche Buttress 3rd Tom Anderson
26 9/13/1980 West Face Variation 1st Tom Anderson
27 10/10/1980 Burning Daylight 2nd Jim Slichter
28 10/11/1980 Cave 1st Jim Slichter
11/1/1980 Tulgey Wood (1st pitch, rated 5.10a) My leader fall interrupting 1st pitch, Tom’s fall on the 2nd, difficulty of the third pitch, and an afternoon start in November cause us to back off. Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
29 11/2/1980 Waterfall 1st Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
30 4/11/1981 Burning Daylight 3rd Tom Anderson
31 4/12/1981 Walt Bailey 5th Tom Anderson
4/12/1981 Bittersweet Attempt
5/1/1981 Beezalabub Attempt
32 5/2/1981 Southeast Direct 1st Jim Slichter
5/2/1981 Wiessner Attempt
5/2/1981 Bon Homme Attempt
33 5/23/1981 Soler 3rd Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
5/23/1981 Hollywood&Vine Attempt
34 5/24/1981 West Face Variation 2nd Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
35 5/25/1981 TAD 3rd Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
36 7/3/1981 Walt Bailey 6th Jim Slichter
37 7/4/1981 West Face w Grey Roof 2nd Jim Slichter
38 4/23/1982 Belle Fourche Buttress 4th Jim Slichter
39 4/23/1982 Soler 4th Jim Slichter
4/24/1982 Southwest Direct Attempt
40 5/29/1982 Burning Daylight 4th Jim Slichter, Mark Jacobs
5/29/1982 One Way Sunset We do this in two pitches, then rappel down. Dennis Horning, Jim Slichter
41 5/30/1982 Tower Classic 2nd Jim Slichter, Mark Jacobs
42 7/2/1982 Witchie 1st Jim Slichter
43 7/3/1982 Southwest Direct 1st Jim Slichter
44 7/4/1982 West Face Variation w/o Grey Roof 3rd Jim Slichter
45 7/23/1982 North Face 3rd Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson, Dan Grady
7/23/1982 Southeast Direct To the Meadows
46 7/24/1982 West Face w Grey Roofs 3rd Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson, Dan Grady
47 5/28/1983 Belle Fourche Buttress w Peterson Var 5th Jim Slichter
48 5/28/1983 Walt Bailey 7th Jim Slichter, Dick Anderson, Dan Grady
49 5/29/1983 West Face w Grey Roof 4th /6 hours Jim Slichter
50 5/29/1983 North Face 4th /5:40 VC to VC Jim Slichter
5/30/1983 TAD To the Meadows
7/2/1983 Cave To the Meadows Tom Anderson
51 7/3/1983 Belle Fourche Buttress 6th Tom Anderson
52 5/26/1984 New Wave 1st Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
5/26/1984 Assembly Line To the Meadows
53 5/28/1984 Dump Watt 1st 1 Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
54 6/30/1984 Hollywood & Vine 2nd 1 (5.10) Jim Slichter
55 6/30/1984 Phillip’s Retreat 1st Jim Slichter, Carl Coy
56 7/1/1984 Dump Watt 2nd (First pitch, 5.10) One of the toughest, “touchiest” leads I do on the Tower. Jim Slichter
7/1/1984 Soler To the Meadows
10/25/1984 El Matador 1+ pitches
57 10/25/1984 Walt Bailey 8th Tom Anderson
58 10/26/1984 West Face Variation 4th Tom Anderson
59 4/19/1985 Walt Bailey 9th 1 Tom Anderson
60 4/19/1985 Hollywood&Vine 3rd Tom Anderson
61 4/20/1985 Cave 2nd Tom Anderson
4/21/1985 Burning Daylight Pitch 1 (Tom) Tom Anderson
5/24/1986 Burning Daylight Pitch 1 Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
5/24/1986 Casper College Pitch 1 Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
5/25/1986 Southwest Direct Pitch 1,2 Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
5/25/1986 Tulgey Wood Pitch 1,2 Jim Slichter, Tom Anderson
62 6/21/1986 Hollywood&Vine 4th Pitch 1,2 Jim Slichter
6/21/1986 Back to Montana Pitch 1,2 Jim Slichter
6/21/1986 Klondike (Jim) Jim Slichter
63 8/8/1986 One Way Sunset 1st (24th different route) Tom Anderson (24)
8/9/1986 Way-layed (Roney) Tom Anderson, Dave Roney
8/9/1986 Mr Clean Start
64 5/30/1987 Witchie 2nd Jim Slichter (44)

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